Tbilisi awaits you. Photo by Jaanus Jagomägi on Unsplash

March 2021 update

According to the Georgian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA), Georgia has implemented new entry rules and Covid-19 testing requirements. These rules may vary by nationality. Please refer to the Georgian MFA's Covid-19 travel page for more information.

One doesn’t find Georgia.

Georgia finds you.

Once Georgia finds you, buckle up tight, because you’re about to go on a wild, unforgettable ride.

The world’s original Georgia is home to rich traditions and history, larger-than-life people, and landscapes that put the Lord of the Rings to shame. It’s also home to misconceptions and misunderstandings, thanks to its status as a former Soviet state and the world’s #1 emerging tourist destination.

Every great journey has to start somewhere; let your journey to Georgia start with Moon Emissary. With an academic background in former Soviet (New East) studies and over a year’s experience living in Georgia, I’ve got the detailed, honest answers you seek for some frequently asked questions about the land of wine and Stalin:

1. Where is Georgia?

Located at the juncture of Europe and Asia, Georgia is a small mountainous country that neighbors Russia and Turkey. With a population of 3.7 million people, Georgia covers an area of 26,911 square miles (69,700 square kilometers). Georgia’s capital city is named Tbilisi.

Ecologically, Georgia is incredibly diverse, with temperate rainforests, warm valleys, arid plains, and alpine highlands.

2. Is Georgia in Europe?

This question’s answer is complicated, as it depends on how you define Europe. If you define Europe according to geography, the answer is technically “yes”. However, if you define Europe according to political philosophy, as a system of liberal ideas and values, the answer is technically “no”.

Georgian society is conservative and patriarchal, one that values traditional gender roles and family systems. Politically, Georgia has what political scientists call a “hybrid regime” - a functioning government and voting system, albeit with widespread corruption, suppressed political opposition, and harassment against journalists and media outlets.

Analytical tit for tat aside, this question is a hot topic in Georgia. Its answer is constantly in flux, as Georgia’s political and societal landscape is still evolving.

3. How do I get to Georgia?

Example of a flight to Tbilisi with a good fare rate.

Air travel is the most common option, with Turkish Airlines and Qatar Airways offering the best deals and flight routes.

If flying from the US, your flight will most likely include a long layover in Istanbul or Doha; it’s not uncommon to spend up to 2 days in transit on your way to Georgia.

Cost wise, your fare will depend on when you want to travel - the high season, June through August (when the mountain passes open and Georgia is bathed in sunshine) is the most expensive time to visit Georgia, and the low season, November through March (when the highlands are inaccessible due to snow), is the least expensive.

Thanks to messy geopolitics and visa requirements from Georgia’s neighbors, overland travel to Georgia can be tricky. While it’s possible to access Georgia via the Turkish, Armenian, Azerbaijani, or Russian borders, air travel is the easiest transit option.

4. What are Georgian people like?

Don’t let Georgia's compact size fool you. Each Georgian region has its own traditions, dialects, foods, personality quirks, and stereotypes. Most Georgians are extroverted, emotive, and friendly (though exceptions apply, just like everywhere else in the world). Hospitality is their claim to fame, where guests are given the royal treatment and help is given freely to strangers. As a collective society, Georgian families and communities are tightknit and patriarchal. Gender roles are traditional, as are views on sex, virginity, and marriage.

Got more questions about Georgia?

5. Is Georgia expensive?

It depends on the following factors:

When you travel
Your budget
Exchange rates with your respective currency
What you plan to do while in Georgia

Georgia’s currency is the Georgian Lari (GEL); exchange rates typically favor Western currencies (Dollars, Euros, or Pounds), however, always monitor exchange rates and factor in possible exchange rate fluctuations while budgeting for your trip.

Food and drink in Georgia is affordable and bursting with flavor. Shopping is the same; Tbilisi and Georgia’s beach holiday capital, Batumi, offers a range of mainstream shops and unique finds from local artisans. Accommodations and activities in Georgia have something for every pocketbook as well, from funky, budget-friendly hostels and free guided tours, to posh hotels and cushy private tours to match.

6. Is Georgia safe?

Is Georgia safe for LGBT+/queer travelers?

LGBT+ travelers generally won’t face any problems in Georgia. Although Georgian law prohibits discrimination against LGBT+ people and Tbilisi has a vibrant underground queer scene, Georgian society is still conservative and hasn’t come around to accepting LGBT+ rights, gay marriage, or alternative forms of gender expression yet. Homophobia and transphobia are common, as is violence against out members of Georgia’s queer community. Queer couples are advised to abstain from public displays of affection while in-country and queer travelers are advised to avoid discussing LGBT+ topics with strangers.

Yes.

While my memoir, Do You Speak Georgian?, chronicles the myriad of ways Georgia kicked my ass, mark my words - Georgia will not kick your ass.

Despite being located in a tense geopolitical neighborhood, Georgia is peaceful and safe. Crime rates are low. Gun violence isn’t a thing. Georgian police take tourist safety very seriously. As a tourist, your biggest threats will be pickpockets, Georgian drivers, and stomach aches after you overindulge in Georgia’s hearty food.

As a developing country, please be aware that Georgia is not without issues, with poverty, gender equality, relations with Russia, and drug trafficking being just a few. These issues, however, generally will not affect short-term visitors.

7. Is Georgia safe for black people?

Georgia falls under the Eastern Europe umbrella, and for Black travelers, this might come with concerns about racism and neo-Nazi activity.

I’m going to give it to you straight – are there racist people in Georgia? Yes. Are there far-right groups in Georgia? You bet. Since 2014, there have been numerous reported racist incidents against Black students and immigrants, involving assault or harassment from far-right groups.

Despite emerging far-right activity, Black tourists are extremely unlikely to encounter racism or far-right groups in Georgia. If you do encounter neo-Nazis, they are extremely unlikely to approach you.

Don't Touch My Hair...

Georgians might touch your hair or skin without asking permission - this comes from a place of harmless curiosity, not malice. Remember, Black people are rare in Georgia. Many Georgians have never seen or interacted with Black people before and are not familiar with etiquette around Black skin and hair.

The majority of Georgians are not racist; Black people are rare in Georgia, and most Georgians will be very curious about you. At worst, you’ll be talked about and openly stared at. Constantly. Arrive prepared to take lots of pictures with strangers and answer endless questions about where you’re from and why you’re visiting Georgia.

Tips on how to avoid, spot, and respond to encounters with neo-Nazis will be covered in a later article.

8. Can I visit Abkhazia?

Yes.

But it’s risky.

Abkhazia is an unrecognized territory under Russian occupation, with limited consular presence or tourism infrastructure. Most travel insurance policies will not cover travel to Abkhazia, and Western governments advise against visiting the region. If you enter Abkhazia through Russia, you will be barred from entering Georgia. If you enter Abkhazia through Georgia, understand that the border is high in criminal activity. If you get in trouble or lose your passport in Abkhazia, your embassy will not be able to help you.

If you decide to visit Abkhazia, do so at your own peril. Do not visit Abkhazia by yourself. Make sure someone in Georgia knows where you’re going, how long you’ll be there, and when you plan to return. Black travelers, know that you will attract attention and increased scrutiny from security officials, for better or for worse.

If you’re a beginner solo traveler, unfamiliar with the South Caucasus’ geopolitical dynamics, or can’t read or communicate in Russian, I strongly recommend that you steer clear of Abkhazia. The rest of Georgia has plenty to offer.

9. Do I need a visa?

Clothes lines and common apartments Batumi. Photo by Konstantine Trundayev on Unsplash

Whether or not you’ll need a visa depends on the following factors:

Your nationality
Your length of stay
What you plan to do in Georgia (i.e. tourism, business, paid work)

For tourists, Georgia’s immigration policy is similar to the EU’s. Nationals from Australia, Israel, Japan, the US, the UK, Canada, the EU, and several other countries do not need to obtain a visa prior to entering Georgia and may visit Georgia for up to 90 days per 180-day period.

Nationals who require a visa must obtain an Ordinary Visa C prior to travelling to Georgia. Georgian visas are issued by the Georgian embassy or consulate with jurisdiction over your place of residence. Applications for an Ordinary Visa C may be submitted online - Georgian short-term tourists visas are typically single entry, and the permitted duration of stay is typically congruent with the length of your visit.

10. What language do georgians speak?

Do Georgians Speak English? Or Russian?

Yes. Speaking Russian is acceptable, but always ask a Georgian (in Georgian first) if they speak Russian before switching languages. Older Georgians usually speak Russian. Younger Georgians, however, can usually understand English.

Georgians speak Georgian (this isn’t a joke, I swear).

Georgian is in the Kartvelian language family, with 33 letters in its alphabet. Unrelated to any other language on earth, Georgian is famous for its curly script and consonant clusters.

Fluency in Georgian isn’t required for visiting Georgia, but I recommend familiarizing yourself with the Georgian alphabet and memorizing a few Georgian words (numbers, city names, “hello”, “thank you”, etc.) prior to traveling. Outside of Tbilisi and tourist hotspots, spoken and written English is rare and a basic understanding of Georgian will help make your travels easier. Plus, you’ll impress the locals.

Are you planning on traveling to Georgia once the pandemic is over? If so, what’s on your must-see list? Let me know down below!

Georgia on Your Mind? 10 FAQs with Honest Answers