How to Spend a Layover in Istanbul. The Right Way.
Istanbul’s crown jewel. No, not me. The Blue Mosque. Photo by Alicia Michelle
Your layover in Istanbul doesn’t have to be Byzantine.
Plan it the right way with this beginner-friendly article.
What to Know Beforehand
Is Turkey Safe?
Every few years, something crazy goes down in Turkey, such as coups, the Syrian refugee crisis, and terrorism. The reasons for why crazy stuff happens in Turkey are complex; to simplify, Turkey is in a rough geopolitical neighborhood and Turkey herself is going through an identity crisis.
For visitors who are concerned about safety in Turkey, understand that travel, no matter where you go, is never without risk. To travel means being vulnerable. And vulnerability can make shit can get real, real fast.
That being said, danger is extremely unlikely to befall you in Turkey. Especially as a short-term visitor. And especially if you respect Turkish laws and culture.
What to Consider while Planning Your Layover
Size matters. Do not underestimate Istanbul’s size. Istanbul is twice as big as New York City.
You have less time than you think you have. When planning a layover in Istanbul, stick to one neighborhood and one neighborhood only. First-time visitors should stick to the city’s European side, where the main tourist sites are located.
Istanbul’s traffic does. Not. Play. Know that it can take up to 2 hours to commute to and from the airport...on a good day. You do not want to be sitting on the Bosporus Bridge while your connecting flight is boarding. Trust me on this.
Do you have enough time on your layover?
Summer in Istanbul. Photo by ZEKERIYA SEN on Unsplash
You need a minimum of 9 hours to go into Istanbul. Do not go into Istanbul if your layover is under 9 hours.
When assessing how much time you have, always factor in airport commute times, flight and airport security procedures, and that you need to arrive at the airport no later than 2 hours before your connecting flight.
For example, an itinerary for a 9-hour layover in Istanbul would look like this:
12:00 PM : Land at Istanbul Airport (your connecting flight departs at 9:30 PM)
12:00 PM - 1:30 PM : Post-flight rituals, including disembarking the plane, self-care, border control, currency exchange, storing your luggage, and waiting for a bus
1:30 PM - 3:30 PM : Navigate to Sultanahmet with light traffic via public transport
3:30 PM - 5:30 PM : Explore Sultanahmet. *Note you only have 2 hours to explore
5:30 PM - 7:30 PM : Return to Istanbul Airport via public transport (with light traffic)
7:30 PM : Arrive at Istanbul Airport, retrieve your luggage from storage, and complete pre-flight rituals
9:00 PM : Board connecting flight
9:30 PM : Take off
If your layover in Istanbul is under 9 hours, please refer to my layover hater’s survival guide.
If you have enough time to leave the airport, proceed with the following steps:
Actioning Your Istanbul Layover
Before Your Flight
Obtain an entry visa. Depending on your nationality, you must obtain a visa before traveling to Turkey (even if you’re just visiting for a layover). Without a visa, you won’t be able to leave the airport. Many nationals are eligible to obtain a Turkish entry visa online; check requirements and apply via Turkey’s Electronic Visa Application System.
Notify your bank. A few days before your layover, let your bank know that you’ll be travelling in Turkey.
On Arrival
Upon disembarking the plane, shake off that grimy post-flight feeling with a quick self-care routine.
After freshening up, head to passport control, present your passport and Turkish entry visa (if applicable) when prompted, and proceed with the following steps:
Obtain Turkish lira (TL). Cash is king in Turkey; credit cards are rarely accepted outside of international hotels, restaurants, and stores (and not at all in taxis, kiosks, and public transportation). Obtain Turkish lira at an airport ATM or an exchange desk. Be sure to have multiple 5, 10, and 20 TL notes; avoid notes larger than 50 if you can. About 800 TL (roughly USD 100) should do for the day.
Obtain an Istanbulkart from the Havaist Airport Shuttle Bus ticket office. The Istanbulkart is your budget-friendly key to using Istanbul’s public transportation network. The card costs 7 TL. Load it with 20 TL to start – top up when needed. Note that the Istanbulkart is nonrefundable.
If travelling with a carry-on, store your luggage in an airport locker. Luggage storage lockers can be found on Istanbul Airport’s departure floor. Small lockers cost 40 TL for the first 12 hours, and +40 TL for every 24 hours afterwards. Large lockers cost 60 TL for the first 12 hours, and +60 TL for every 24 hours afterwards. Only Turkish lira is accepted as payment!
Leaving the Airport
A luxuriant serving of Turkish coffee. Photo by Alicia Michelle
You have several options for leaving Istanbul Airport:
Havaist Airport Shuttle (HVIST). My preferred option, featuring panoramic windows, Wifi, USB chargers, a temperature-controlled environment, and a 0% chance of being scammed. Pay using your Istanbulkart, find a seat, and relax as Istanbul unfolds before you.
How to get to Sultanahmet with the Havaist Shuttle
To reach Sultanahmet, take the HVIST-15 line to Aksaray, and from there, transfer to the TI- Kabataş - Bağcılar tram in the direction of Kabataş. Disembark at Sultanahmet. Stops will be announced in English and Turkish.
Havaist Shuttle Bus
Fare - 25 TL, one-way
Ride Duration - 100 mins, more during rush hour
Tram
Fare - 5 TL, per ride
Service frequency - every 5 minutes from 6 AM to midnight
Uber. Use Uber the same way you do at home. Request a ride to Sultanahmet. Note that Uber might be more expensive than public transportation and taxis.
Taxi. My least preferred option thanks to a greater chance of being scammed, but it’ll do in a pinch. Hail a taxi at the airport and ask them to take you to Sultanahmet. Only use taxis with visible company branding and a visible meter. To prevent bill-swap scams, always present your cash, point to the note’s denomination, and audibly state its amount before paying the driver. Without traffic, the ride should take you between 45 minutes to an hour.
What to do on your Istanbul layover?
Fountains at the Topaki Palace. Photo by Alicia Michelle
Visit the Blue Mosque. Istanbul’s crown jewel. Representing the Ottoman Empire’s zenith and the nation of Turkey herself, the Blue Mosque’s 6 minarets and 9 domes will be the first thing you see upon arriving in Sultanahmet.
Behold the Hagia Sophia. Another Turkish national treasure, and a shining example of how the Ottomans borrowed from other cultures. Catch it at sunset, where the sun dyes its exterior in neon vermillion.
Stroll through the Topaki Palace’s courtyard. The seat of Ottoman power. Get a taste of palace life by taking a stroll in the Topaki Palace’s courtyard. Let your imagination be your guide as you explore. Stick around for long enough and the palace walls might tell you a story...
Get lost at the Grand Bazaar. Old world treasures, including spices, artisan perfumes, and mountains of Turkish delight await you at Istanbul’s labyrinthine covered market. Watch your wallet, and not because of pickpockets.
Savor Turkish coffee. As a rich and piquant style of coffee prepared using ground, unfiltered coffee beans and brewed in a small copper pot called a cezve, Turkish coffee is guaranteed to remedy your jetlag. Best enjoyed over desserts at a café. I like mine with a spoonful of sugar.
My Turkish Coffee Recommendation
Brew Coffeeworks Sirkeci (within walking distance from Sultanahmet)
Hobyar, Hamidiye Cd. No:60, 34112 Fatih/İstanbul, Turkey
+90 539 678 96 19
Munch on some döner. Take a break from drab airport food with a Turkish staple, döner. Featuring tender spit-roasted meat, hearty pide, and a medley of fresh veggies, the best döner can be found in hole-in-the wall establishments.
My Döner Recommendation
Dönerci Şahin Usta
Mollafenari, Kılıçcılar Sk. No:5, 34120 Fatih/İstanbul, Turkey
+90 212 526 52 97
Try Turkish ice cream. Indulge your senses with a round (or two) of dondurma. Turkish ice cream has a thick, elastic texture, thanks to a special ingredient called mastic resin. Its taste is hard to describe – a little sweet, a little creamy, a little gelatinous. Vendors, dressed in traditional costume, can be found scattered about Sultanahmet. You’ll hear them before you see them.
If you have more time…
If your layover is 10 hours or more and you’ve flown with Turkish Airlines, consider taking a guided tour with Touristanbul. Tour schedules, details, and sign-up directions can be found via Turkish Airlines’ website.
Tips for your Istanbul Layover
A typical bazaar scene in Istanbul. Photo by Alicia Michelle
Dress conservatively. Women are not required to don hijab in Turkey (unless entering a mosque) and Istanbul is fairly liberal, however, Turkish society is conservative when it comes to gender. Keep your assets covered (as lovely as they are); revealing outfits could attract unwanted attention.
Turkish tea houses are not for women. Tea is popular in Turkey, and you’ll probably spot many tea houses during your layover. Ladies take head; tea houses are men-only spaces in Turkey. Though nothing bad will happen if you enter, stepping into a tea house as a woman could create an awkward situation.
Be wary of strangers on the street. Turkey is famous for its...ahem...thirsty men. Men who might accost you during your layover. Never engage harassers and never accept gifts or offers to “show you around”. Be firm in your refusals and be rude if need be.
Locals will stare at you. Turkish people are very inquisitive, and if you stick out, they’ll stare at you. Constantly. Be prepared for this. Accept it. Embrace it.
Understand tout culture. If visiting a bazaar, you’ll likely encounter touts. As solicitations shopkeepers use to grab a would-be customer’s attention, touts can be unsettling for the uninitiated. Understand that touts are not meant to harm you. In fact, some are quite amusing.
Maps are your friend. Istanbul can be overwhelming for first-time visitors and it’s easy to get lost. Arrive prepared with maps and study your routes ahead of time. Always know where you’re going!
Do you have a layover in Istanbul coming up in the future? What are you looking forward to seeing the most?
